Fossa Cheese: A Tradition That Lives On
As per tradition, in these early July days, we’ve carried out the “sfossatura” of our pecorino cheeses.
After spending about 100 days deep in the “fossa” (pit), the cheeses must now rest in the refrigerated cell of our dairy to allow their flavors to balance. In just a few weeks, the Fossa cheese will be ready to taste.
But what does “Fossa cheese” really mean?
The term “Fossa cheese” refers to the traditional aging method known as infossatura, where wheels of cheese are buried in special sealed pits. These pits are shaped like an inverted cone with a single opening at the top and are dug into sandstone rock, locally called tufo, known for its distinctive aroma. The tufo helps create a microclimate with constant temperature and humidity—perfect conditions for cheese maturation.
Before sealing the pit, a lit candle is placed inside to consume the remaining oxygen, creating an anaerobic environment that enables a unique fermentation process. This alters the cheese’s original structure, changing its flavor, aroma, and chemical-biological properties.
In the past, these pits were often located inside homes—usually on the ground floor—or outside. Once sealed, they were covered with a mixture of sand and stones to prevent thieves or intruders from discovering them.
Although Podere Il Casale has never had its own fossa, but we have the privilege of using one located in the Val di Chiana, in the municipality of Montepulciano, to keep this tradition alive.
The Origins of This Tradition
In the spring months, there was always an abundance of cheese production that needed to be stored to endure the harsh winters. Since peasants’ homes rarely had cellars—only large landowners had caves and cellars for aging—farmers had to come up with alternative solutions for storing and preserving cheese.
Cheese requires humidity and optimal temperatures below 59°F (15°C) for proper maturation. It’s likely that, by observing soil conditions, someone had the idea to use the earth’s depth to take advantage of its natural humidity, preventing the cheese from drying out too much. Another theory suggests that these pits were also used to hide food and grain to protect them from thieves or invading armies. Although the use of pits for cheese dates back at least to the Middle Ages, similar techniques were likely in use during Roman times. Thanks to the infossatura process, cheeses were perfectly preserved while developing a stronger, uniquely distinctive flavor.
The Infossatura Process
The cheese wheels are carefully wrapped in cloth bags, tied securely, and placed into the pit, filling any gaps with straw. Before sealing the pit completely, as mentioned earlier, a lit candle is placed inside to consume all oxygen, creating the ideal anaerobic environment for fermentation. The pit remains sealed for about 100 days. Once opened, the cheeses are removed and transferred to refrigerated rooms, where they continue aging in a controlled environment to balance and refine their flavor.
How does the raw milk Fossa Pecorino taste after this unique aging process?
Our Pecorino di Fossa stands out from the very first sniff:
on the nose: it releases fermented, intense, and complex notes, accompanied by hints of toasted bread crust and melted butter, which soften its impact and enrich its character; on the palate: it reveals all the strength of its aging process in the pit. The flavor is bold and piquant, with a slight blue-veined nuance that adds almost spicy undertones.
Hints of fermented hay emerge, along with a characteristic barnyard note, typical of long-aged cheeses matured in enclosed environments.
The finish brings a pleasant bitterness that balances the aromatic complexity, leaving a long and satisfying aftertaste.
