Spring Milk: The White Gold of Pecorino Gran Riserva
When spring drives away winter and temperatures grow milder, the pastures burst into full abundance!
Alongside common grass, clover and sulla begin to emerge—key components of the sheep’s diet. The pasture stays tender and sweet, and the sheep fully enjoy this unique moment of the year.
Towards the end of April and throughout May, clover and sulla bloom, and their flowers become a true delicacy for grazing animals. This extraordinary variety of forage is reflected in the quality of the milk, which becomes particularly rich in fats and marked by intense notes of fresh green grass.
During this period, milk production also reaches its annual peak. With an average of 1.3 liters of milk per sheep per day—the highest yield for the Sardinian breed—we can truly speak of the best milk of the year.
Temperatures around 20°C are perfect for producing high-quality milk.
(Not by chance, in the past, sharecroppers in the Val d’Orcia only milked their sheep in March, April, and May to make the famous Pecorino di Pienza, using a vegetable rennet derived from the milk thistle harvested the previous year. But that’s another story, worthy of a dedicated article.)
With this precious spring milk, we choose to produce our Pecorino Gran Riserva.
Each wheel requires a full 100 liters of milk. Since this cheese is meant for long aging—over one year, ideally two—spring’s “sweet” milk is ideal for developing its complex aromas, ranging from nutty notes to hints of butter.
The Crafting Process: Art and Patience
The production of Gran Riserva demands great care, especially during the separation of the curd from the whey.
We obtain an extremely fine curd, similar to grains of rice, allowing for perfect separation between solids and liquids. The curd remains submerged in the whey for about an hour, during which it is continuously stirred and gradually heated from around 35°C to at least 45°C.
It is then collected and pressed under the whey—a crucial step to prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the wheel.
Once compacted, the curd mass is lifted and transferred into special plastic molds decorated with the traditional basket-weave pattern.
In the past, before plastic, real wicker baskets were used, sturdy enough to support the significant weight of the wheels, which can reach up to 15 kg.
The curd, placed into molds, is pressed for several hours using a weight equal to or greater than the wheel itself, and frequently turned to ensure even pressure.
The ambient temperature of the dairy, now around 20°C, also helps in draining the whey—an essential condition for achieving the perfect texture.
Salting and Aging: The Birth of Gran Riserva
The day after production, the wheels are immersed in saturated brine (20% salt) for several days, depending on their weight. After salting, the long aging journey begins.
After about a month, the wheels are transferred to a natural cave in Acquapendente, Lazio. Here, a unique microclimate and a distinctive bacterial flora guide the cheese through a slow, deep maturation—impossible to replicate in refrigerated storage.
The cave imparts our Pecorino Gran Riserva with aromas, complexity, and depth that embody the very essence of our work: a celebration of nature, tradition, and patience.
