The sensory adventure with our Washed-Rind Cheese
The sensory adventure with our Washed-Rind Cheese
A Unique Sensory Adventure
Today we want to deepen the “treatment of crusts” and how it develops the typical crust of cheese called “Cheese with rind washed”.
We’ve emphasized many times how crucial milk, especially from rich and natural pastures, is for producing high-quality cheese. But let’s not forget that the transformation of milk into cheese also plays a crucial role in defining the texture and characteristics of the final product.
Whether it’s a hard, soft, creamy, or dry cheese, every step of the process impacts the result.
And then there’s the aging process—an often underrated but hugely important aspect. The conditions in which it occurs (a cave, pit, refrigerator, or even high in the mountains or on the plains) and the treatment of the wheels are decisive.
You Either Love It or Hate It!
First of all, let’s prepare for an important fact: washed-rind cheese is a type of cheese you either love or hate. During our tastings at Podere Il Casale, we’ve often heard customers comment, “Everything is great, but this cheese—No, it’s too much for me.” Pieces of washed-rind cheese often have a sticky consistency and a rind that ranges from orange to pink, and they often remain on the board like abandoned orphans! On the other hand, there’s a small yet enthusiastic group of customers who express their appreciation by saying, “Everything is great, but this cheese—ROCKS!” And indeed, this creamy cheese usually leaves no trace on the board.
But How Is a Washed-Rind Cheese Made?
As the name suggests, a washed-rind cheese undergoes a treatment that involves washing the wheels. This treatment is common for most cheeses, which can be washed more or less frequently. But beware: this isn’t a one-time operation. Typically, washing starts right after dry salting and continues daily for a couple of weeks. This process allows the rind to develop in a unique way, absorbing those intense aromas—loved or hated—that define washed-rind cheese.
Why This Treatment?
Washing primarily serves to remove the natural molds that form during aging.
Imagine a particularly meticulous cheesemaker who, initially, might have washed his wheels too often, only to discover that instead of staying clean, the rinds became coated in a slimy, reddish substance. Legend has it that many washed-rind cheeses were born in French and German monasteries, where monks washed the wheels even more frequently, causing the rinds to transform into a kind of reddish-orange slime.
Some countries, such as France, Germany, and the United States, are particularly fond of this type of cheese aging. In Italy, on the other hand, Taleggio is probably the only cheese that enjoys great popularity in this category, although, as we know, Fontina undergoes a brief washed-rind phase at the beginning before developing a drier aging.
Our washed-rind Pecorino, for example, is ready after about six weeks of aging, but if left too long, it risks turning into a cream that spreads, leaving the rind empty!
But What Exactly Happens on the Washed Rind?
The key to the washed rind lies in the washing process itself. The solutions used for washing can vary: water and salt, whey and salt, fermented whey, beer, or solutions made with herbs and flowers.
The composition of the solution directly influences rind formation, enriching it with yeasts, molds, and bacteria naturally present in the humid environment. Among these, the undisputed protagonist is Brevibacterium linens, a bacterium responsible, among other things, for human “smelly feet.” In some languages, it’s even called “cheese feet.” A bit unsettling, perhaps, but it’s important to remember that all fermentations are decomposition processes.
The washed rind develops particularly well in colder months, when higher humidity and cool weather favor the growth of this microflora.
In summer, however, at our dairy in Val d’Orcia, the microflora goes into “standby” mode, only becoming active again when the climate becomes favorable.
One anecdote we like to share involves Ulisse, our cheesemaker, who 20 years ago, when the new dairy was opened, experienced the same situation as the monks mentioned above. Every year, when the refrigeration cells were turned on in late March, the microflora on the rind would disappear, leaving behind a drier, less sticky cheese.
In an increasingly sterile and uniform world, it’s important to remember that the most interesting cheeses aren’t born in sterile environments. Natural microflora and the cheesemaker’s care are essential for crafting a cheese that tells the story of its land and traditions.
So, even if our washed-rind Pecorino isn’t for everyone, it’s undoubtedly a unique sensory experience, appreciated by those who know how to savor its distinctive aromas and texture.
But one thing is certain: every taste is a journey into flavor, and that can only be a good thing!
To all those who love this cheese, we say congratulations; to those who don’t, our condolences.
